Met surfer MJ at the garage and we walked down to the beach. We decided to go outside (the break) which turned out to be tougher than expected because of the big breaks in the waves. Nevertheless we got out past the gift shop on the pier and drifted south to the front of San Miguel II, when we decided to paddle back in. There seemed to be a little rip current but we both got back to the break where I paddled in and got hammered by one wave, but scrambled back onto my board before the next monster wave and rode it all the way to my living room 😁. Actually, it was my longest ride to date – over 30 seconds, although I got off frame at 30 seconds still on the board. Scary and fun! MJ came in too, and we rested before going back out by Tower #4 and stayed inside for a few smaller rides.
